Not every tired floor needs a full sand. If the existing coating is dull and scuffed but hasn't worn through to the timber, a recoat can bring back the sheen and add a fresh protective layer in a fraction of the time. It's sometimes called a screen and recoat, a maintenance coat or a buff and coat.
Geelong Floor Sanders is an enquiry service. With your consent, we pass your enquiry to an independent local floor sander, once one is appointed, who can check whether a recoat will work on your floor and quote the job. Here's how to tell whether it's the right option.
How a recoat works
The floor is cleaned thoroughly to remove dirt, grease and any polish or cleaning residue. The existing finish is then lightly abraded with a buffer fitted with a fine screen or pad. This doesn't remove the coating. It scuffs the surface so the new coat can grip. After vacuuming and wiping, one or more fresh coats of finish are applied.
Because the timber itself isn't touched, the colour stays as it is and only a small amount of dust is produced. Most single-room or whole-house recoats are done in a day or two.
When a recoat works
A recoat is a good choice when:
- The finish is dull, with light surface scratches, but intact everywhere
- No bare or greyed timber is showing in hallways or doorways
- You're happy with the current colour
- The floor was last sanded and coated within the past decade or so
- You want a refresh before selling, between tenants or after a renovation
When you need a full sand instead
A recoat can't fix problems that sit in or below the coating. You'll need a full floor sanding job if:
- The finish has worn through and the timber has gone grey or black in traffic paths
- There are deep scratches, dents or gouges you want removed
- The coating is peeling, flaking, cloudy or lifting
- You want to change the colour of the floor
- There are water marks or pet stains in the timber
Applying a fresh coat over these problems just seals them in, and new finish won't stick to bare, dirty timber or a failing old coat.
Unknown finishes and test patches
Not every finish can be recoated. Some floors have been treated with wax, silicone-based cleaning products or oil, which can stop a new coat from sticking. Factory finishes on prefinished and engineered boards are often very hard and may need special preparation. Mixing finish types can also cause problems. For example, some water-based products may not bond over an oiled surface.
A careful contractor will clean and abrade a small test area, apply the proposed finish and check adhesion once it's dry, often by pressing tape onto the surface and pulling it off. If the new coat lifts, the floor needs a full sand. Tell the contractor anything you know about past treatments, including cleaning products you've used.
Recoats for rentals and pre-sale
Recoats are popular with landlords and sellers because they're quicker and cheaper than a full sand, and the room is back in use sooner. Between tenancies, a recoat can protect a floor before the wear goes through to the timber. Before a sale, it can lift the look of a floor in photos and inspections. If the floor is badly worn, though, buyers and tenants will notice, and a full sand may be better value.
How often to recoat
There's no fixed schedule. It depends on the finish, foot traffic, pets and how well the floor is cleaned. Many floor sanders suggest looking at a recoat when the sheen has faded in the main walkways but the coating is still intact, often every few years in busy homes. Recoating at that stage protects the timber and puts off the need for a full sand, which removes timber each time it's done.
Signs it's time:
- The finish looks dull or patchy in hallways and kitchens
- Water no longer beads on the surface in high-traffic areas
- Fine scratches are visible across the main walkways
Living with a recoat
Because there's little sanding, a recoat is much less disruptive than a full sand. You'll still need to clear the rooms and keep off the floor while the coat dries. Drying and curing times depend on the product. Water-based finishes are generally quicker than solvent-based ones. Ask the contractor for written instructions about walking on the floor, returning furniture and laying rugs.
Caring for your floor afterwards
- Use doormats at every entry, especially in coastal homes where sand gets tracked inside.
- Put felt pads under furniture legs.
- Sweep or vacuum regularly, because grit acts like sandpaper.
- Clean with a damp, not wet, mop and a cleaner recommended for your finish.
- Avoid oil soaps, wax polishes and steam mops unless the finish manufacturer approves them.
Typical costs
Published 2026 Australian price guides list a screen and recoat at about $25 to $40 per square metre, compared with about $30 to $50 per square metre for a full sand with three coats. Minimum charges still apply, so a single small room may cost more per square metre. These are national typical ranges, not a quote. See our prices page for sources, and our floor polishing page for a comparison of finishes.
Frequently asked questions
Can floorboards be recoated without sanding?
Yes, if the existing coating is sound. The surface is cleaned and lightly abraded, not sanded back to bare timber, and a fresh coat is applied. If the finish has worn through, is peeling, or the floor has deep damage, a full sand is needed instead.
How do I know if my floor needs a recoat or a full sand?
Look at the main walkways. If the finish is dull but you can't see bare or greyed timber, a recoat may work. If timber is exposed, there are deep scratches or stains, or you want a new colour, you'll need a full sand. A contractor can confirm on site.
Can a recoat go over an old or unknown finish?
Sometimes. Wax, oil and some cleaning products can stop a new finish from sticking, and some factory finishes are very hard to bond to. A contractor should do a test patch and an adhesion check before recoating the whole floor.
How often should a timber floor be recoated?
There's no fixed rule. Busy homes with pets may need a recoat every few years, while quiet rooms can go much longer. The best time is when the sheen has faded in walkways but the coating hasn't worn through to the timber.